THE BIGGER PICTURE of the Smallest Ones

Stories

Rainforest Research: The Bigger Picture

I’m an explorer, biologist, and wildlife photographer specializing in macrophotography and integrated systems ecology. I travel the world’s Equatorial rainforests to document and share the earth’s most diverse ecosystems to highlight the tremendous adaptations and diversity of the microfauna.

At this moment – I find myself thrust back into the humid night air, alive with the drill of cicadas, the chorus of frogs, and the ominous hum of mosquitoes; camera traps, drones,s and DSLRs strapped to my back, ready for adventure. I’m visiting the Tambopata Research Center, almost eight hours upriver from the nearest town in the Peruvian Amazon, observing, photographing, and attempting to shed light on some seldom-seen behaviors.

Tambopata Research Center

Tambopata Research Center – lodge and research facilities surrounded by pristine forests.

The forests around TRC are pristine…

These types of rainforests are essential not just to the animals, that call them home, but also to the researchers that use them as a control group and barometer to greater understand human impacts and aid in restoration efforts. Inasmuch as the rainforest functions as a complex, integrated system, the TRC functions as a kind of hub, where scientists and investigators, the experts in their respective fields can come from all over the world, meet, and collaborate to better understand this web of interactions which no one discipline can tackle alone. This sharing of information, the facilities and the inclusive, participatory stemming from ecotourism is truly what distinguishes this unique lodge-research center.

And that’s where I come in: the small stuff…

An ecosystem is defined as a community of biological organisms, and their interactions with one another and with the environment. This refers to millions of species. It is mind-boggling. It’s easy to focus on the ‘famous’ species – like the jaguars and harpy eagles, however, most of what constitutes the biomass of the rainforest are the organisms that pass unnoticed, and underfoot, each one with a rich and complicated history, full of intrigue. From the entomopathogenic fungi that germinate on their oblivious hosts, infecting them and ultimately taking control of their very brains to redirect their behaviors, to the mutualistic relationships between the sap-sucking homopterans and their ant care-takers to the caterpillars arrayed in aposematic coloration and defensive armature locked in an evolutionary arms race with both its plant hosts and its would-be predators. The ants shape the environment.

Sporodiniella umbellata

A very rare and potentially new species of entomopathogenic fungus (Sporodiniella umbellata) has parasitized an ichneumon wasp (which ironically is a parasitoid itself). These fungi will invade the brains of their hosts and even modify their behavior to facilitate spore dispersal.

On my rainforest research…

I saw the interaction between ants and sap-sucking bugs (homopterans) as a fascinating case of mutualism and opportunism. Ants protect and essentially farm the treehoppers seen here in exchange for a sugary exudate, honeydew, which is carbohydrate-rich and produced in copious quantities. When a treehopper´s production wanes, the ant will pull the treehopper nymph from the branch and displace it to another area of the plant to maximize productivity.

saturniid caterpillar (Automeris sp.)

The bright colors used to display toxicity in thisare called aposematism. Colors plus large defensive spines = a very strong don’t touch my message! Few predators will risk the pain and future potential for infection resulting from an encounter with such a heavily armed caterpillar.

In a world where a fungus affects an ant that shapes the environment, which affects the jaguars, isn’t that worth knowing about?

Tropical rainforests are the most complicated ecosystems on the planet, and the Amazon, being the largest tract of unbroken rainforest in the world, has come to epitomize this. Studying the myriad of interactions that make up this ecosystem is a technical, and logistical challenge. Though we have come a long way since our Victorian predecessors who often appeared to wage war on the very nature they studied, the modern-day study still requires herculean efforts from researchers who spend months in the field often in remote and grueling conditions, exposed to disease, parasites, and wild animals, not to mention isolation. However, through technological innovations, and an increasing array of both fields (UAVs, camera traps, remote sensing technologies, thermal imagery,) and laboratory tools (genetic sequencing) we are able to both acquire the raw data and analyze it in an unprecedented manner.

Visiting the Amazon gives us a rare view into this psychedelic world of mind-bending adaptations, strategies to astonish and inspire, and perhaps lessons to be learned. Adventure awaits – keep your binoculars handy, and your magnifying glass at the ready, and let’s delve into diversity…

In the coming weeks, I’ll be exploring three additional natural history stories that will amaze, impress, and renew one’s appreciation for the rainforests and their inhabitants which hopefully everyone will have the opportunity to visit, either in person or through the Wired Amazon project.

By Paul Betner

  • What our guest say

    • Valuation Excellent
    • 5/5

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A truly magical experience. It’s set in a completely unique location in the middle of the jungle with no other lodges around. The guide we had (Jarinson) was the best, so so knowledgeable, experienced and lovely to spend the time with. The lodge itself is beautiful and food was great too. Would highly recommend. Read all

Interesting bus and river boat rides bring you to Posada Amazonas on the Tambopata River. It’s managed by the Ese Eja indigenous community. Luis M., our guide, helped us observe birds and learn about plants and other animals. A canopy tower, clay lick and oxbow lake are highlights. All personnel are extremely kind and researchers give short lectures in the evening. The food is delicious! Excellent mosquito netting in rooms! Read all

Wow where do I even begin. This was one of the most unique and special experiences we've ever had. You are smack dab in the middle of nowhere, deep in the Amazon jungle. Surrounded by plants and animals of all kinds and some of the most breathtaking scenery you can imagine. And in the company of scientists doing conservation work all around you. The facility is gorgeous beyond belief. Everything is so thoughtfully prepared, from water servers everywhere to comfy couches to hammocks to raised walkways so you can pad around barefoot without feeling like you're going to step on a scorpion. The meals are positively gourmet. They have delicious fresh juice out for you when you come back from your hikes. We spend 2 days there and I genuinely feel like I saw the jungle. 2-3 excursions a day with a private guide to show you everything from plants to birds to animals to a very tall tower where you can watch the sunset over the canopy. We only had 3 people in our group but I believe there can be up to 7. You have the same guide your whole trip so you really get to know them. Johan was our guide and he was wonderful. And I do believe the number of excursions/type/length can be adjusted based on your groups physical ability. The rooms are beautiful and comfy and they help you prepare mosquito netting at night so you can be comfortable. There's a full bar, in the middle of the rainforest. At night there are short (30 min) lectures you can go to if you want where the scientists talk about their work. Fascinating. We loved that the center was very eco conscious and put a lot of effort into being low impact while also offering a truly luxurious experience. That being said. Do yourself a favor and read the web site. This experience will not be for everyone. Ppl posting negative comments here about the heat, bugs, open rooms, etc did not do their homework. You are far, far inside pristine Amazon jungle. It is hot, humid, rainy, and there are bugs. You can expect to use your lovely shower a few times a day to cool off. Fortunately you have lots of down time during the heat of the day to rest under the ceiling fan in your room. There were lots of grasshoppers, moths etc around our room but honestly we didn't have many issues with biting insects or mosquitos despite visiting during the rainy season (we did use bug spray). Your room has one open wall that faces nature. Yes, technically than means someone could see you walking around naked in your room, but you are 15 feet up in the air and facing directly into thick jungle, there is no one out there besides birds and monkeys to see you. They do cut the brush back so nothing except maybe some birds could get into your room. The sounds are magical at night and during the day. It's hot especially if you go during the rainy season as we did. If you hate bugs or can't handle life without air conditioning, this is not for you. Truthfully we had no issues sleeping. Ventilation is another big benefit of the one open wall. Think of this as the glampiest glamping you'll ever do and you will not be disappointed. Read the web site and reviews thoroughly and you won't be surprised. Being good hiking shoes, a lightweight waterproof jacket, refillable water bottle, a hat, binoculars (you can rent them too), bug spray, and sunscreen. Lightweight long sleeved shirts and long pants are essential bc you want to be covered so you won't get bitten or in case you brush up against a nasty plant. We saw monkeys, macaws, capybaras, owls, a caiman, and some cool jungle bugs. The guides even have a telescope you can use to both look at the animals and take great pictures with your phone. once in a lifetime experience in one of the most special and precious ecosystems in the world. Worth every penny and honestly we felt the price was cheap considering what you get. The highlight of our trip to Peru. Thank you so much. Read all

It was our first time in the rainforest and we wouldn't do it any other way. The boat rides on the Madre de Dios and the walks through the rainforests were both exciting and peaceful. Exciting when we spotted wildlife and peaceful as we settled in to hear the sounds and sights of the forest. The lodge was comfortable and the food was great. The research talks in the evenings were a great pre-dinner ritual for us. Do check them out. Saul was an amazing guide - friendly, fun, knowledgeable and very tuned to the rainforest. He could pick up on slight sounds and movements and helped us spot some great wildlife. Read all

TRC is up close with nature deep inside the Peruvian Amazon. If you are a fan of wildlife and love being in the nature this is the place for you. This is an eco lodge, so come with similar expectations. The sound of macaws flying over would make your day. TRC is doing some amazing work on Macaw conservation, the visits to the clay lick would be special. During your journey you would be able to spot a number of animals, birds. Do not miss the guided walks, you would really see a lot of monkeys. If you are a photographer, invest in a good zoom lens ( it will pay you back). The other thing is the amazing staff that take care of you. The food is among the very best I tasted in Peru and they really pamper you. So make sure you walk a lot to burn the additional calories :) Starting from the booking to the pickup in the airport everything is meticulously planned. From Mariella of the booking team, Juan Carlos the guide and Tania, our manager in the hotel everyone was fantastic. Ultimately spotting wild animals is a lot of luck, but this would be a great experience. Rooms: Rooms are large, spacious with wide open balconies, but no monkeys come in ( they strictly don't encourage wildlife feeding). Nearby activities: Lots of them, morning hikes, afternoon hikes, sunset cruise Walkability: You need to walk a bit, so you need to be mobile Food & drinks: Awesome Buffet, great food. Read all

TRC is up close with nature deep inside the Peruvian Amazon. If you are a fan of wildlife and love being in the nature this is the place for you. This is an eco lodge, so come with similar expectations. The sound of macaws flying over would make your day. TRC is doing some amazing work on Macaw conservation, the visits to the clay lick would be special. During your journey you would be able to spot a number of animals, birds. Do not miss the guided walks, you would really see a lot of monkeys. If you are a photographer, invest in a good zoom lens ( it will pay you back). The other thing is the amazing staff that take care of you. The food is among the very best I tasted in Peru and they really pamper you. So make sure you walk a lot to burn the additional calories :) Starting from the booking to the pickup in the airport everything is meticulously planned. From Mariella of the booking team, Juan Carlos the guide and Tania, our manager in the hotel everyone was fantastic. Ultimately spotting wild animals is a lot of luck, but this would be a great experience. Read all

The immersion experience was great. Be prepared though to feel hot and full of bug spray much of the time. Wear hiking pants. Not Lulu leggings (too hot). The guides are great and you can do as much or as little as you want. We saw a lot of animals. Read all

Posadas Amazonas is an eco-friendly lodge that makes a huge commitment to preserving the rainforest for generations to come. The food served (breakfast, lunch and dinner) is fresh and delicious! The staff is extremely knowledgeable and caring. A special shoutout to the lodge manager Cesar for ensuring that we had packed meals for the onward journey when we were delayed by a rain storm. The main attractions apart from the abundant wildlife are the canopy tower and nearby Oxbow lake. The canopy tower gives a great 360 degree view of the rainforest and we were fortunate to see monkeys and macaws from the vantage point. At the Oxbow lake we saw river otters and Caimans and we were able to catch a piranha fish as well. Overall, Posada Amazonas is a great lodge owned and operated by the native communities located in the amazing Amazon rainforest. Read all

I had an amazing time here. I was traveling solo and did 4 days/3 nights through Inca Expert Travel. It was an unforgettable experience! I opted for a group tour for the excursions and am glad I did. Our guide, Boris, was fantastic and made sure we saw as much wildlife as possible. I can't say enough good things about him. The rest of the staff were also very kind. I enjoyed the large variety of fresh food at each meal. I felt safe and well-taken care of the entire time. Read all

TRC was an amazing place to stay. Being in the Amazon rainforest was truly like no other trip I have or will ever take. From arrival we were greeted by staff with cool drinks, warm welcomes. Beautiful main area w bar, sofas, tables,games. Our guide Fernando was SO knowledgeable, interesting, enthusiastic,. We already miss his smile and laugh :) We did every excursion available over our 4 days there. The night hike turned out to be our favorite as we spotted the wandering spider then and many other intersting moths/insects. January is hot and humid, so yes expect to be wet,sweaty. Pack extra bag for wet stinky clothes ... Be ok w insects as no 4th wall in your rooms so at night mosquitio nets do a good job preventing bugs in your bed but when you wake up to use bathroom excpect moths, grasshopppers etc in room. All harmless!! TRC does provide nice rainboots for wet swampy treks.. Read all

A perfect experience in the Amazon. Harry, our guide, made the entire experience very memorable. The food is good, the bar is expensive but good and the support staff were excellent. Tanya, the manager, took care of all our needs and was very supportive the entire stay. Please remember that the rooms are open to the nature and therefore comes with its pros and cons. You wake up with the nature including the mosquitos :) The experiences offered by the Refugio is fantastic and provides a great exposure to the Amazon. Dont miss the Macaw trip. It is just magical. Read all

This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience! From the getgo, it was easy to coordinate our 4-day stay at Tambopata. The booking was all done via email with quick responses, there was clear communication leading up to our stay and even upon arrival the staff was extremely organized (incl. taking our bags and making sure they arrived to our rooms). During our stay the staff was all very friendly and accomodating, the lodge was always clean (actually impressively clean given it is located in the jungle), and the food was great and plentiful. By far the best part of our stay was our tour guide, Saul. Upon arrival, Saul helped us pick our activities based on what animals we wanted to see (using his 10 years of experience). He worked on timing to make sure we can see as much as possible, was extremely knowledgable on the rainforest, the plants, the insects and the animals and noticeably put in the extra effort to find animals. You can tell that he truly loves his job and was always equally as excited to see the animals as us, even though he has seen them thousands of times. He helped us find monkeys, birds, countless insects, lizards, capybaras ect. I am 100% confident our experience wouldn't be the same without him. He even helped us capture these cool photos with only our iphone!! If you are planning to stay are TRC, I would highly recommend asking for Saul as a tour guide, if possible. Read all

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